By Aarushi Saxena

SAN GIMIGNANO – Situated in a little pocket of the Tuscan terrain, Lucia Boni’s atelier in San Gimignano is full of bright coloured coats, hats and scarves mirroring the surrounding landscapes. With a vertical loom taking centre-stage in the store and spools of blue yarn dotting the floor in her workshop above, Lucia’s creative soul is very evident at a glance. The artisanal quality of her designs and her contemporary approach make for a sublime manifestation of hand-made fashion.

Lucia has been hand-weaving ‘tapestries to wear’ since 1978, without any formal training in the craft. Each of her haute-couture creations are woven directly on the frame and then carefully hand-sewn together – totally eliminating the need to cut. With quality and care being of utmost importance, she is very particular about the materials used and how they can be combined to form different textures in one garment.

“In warp I always use 100% merino, in the weave my favourite is mohair. I also use silk, alpaca or cashmere into the inserts of some designs. My mohair comes mainly from New Zealand, Australia and South Africa but the thread is made in Italy in Prato.”

Showing off a particularly vibrant cape that seems to be reminiscent of Klimt’s famous painting ‘The Kiss’, she said: “The time required is based on the complexity of the design. It can take two days to a week. This one took me a month to make.”

Despite having no conscious point of reference, Lucia’s inspiration comes from the nature in Tuscany: warm oranges and pinks borrowed from the sunsets and shades of green from the vineyards surrounding San Gimignano.

“There is a symbiosis between me and the frame. The idea of ​​the model, of the design, of the colours and how to make them come together in my mind at the same time.”

When asked about what a day in her life is like, Lucia says that between her two ateliers, one in San Gimignano and the other in Colle di Val d’Elsa, she keeps dividing her time and no two days are the same.

“I am practically jumping from one place to another; I always have 1000 things to do! I have to organize the work for the various collaborators, prepare the colours, the diagrams with the measurements and understand what the implementation times will be so as to organize who will sew them. Needless to say, being a very small artisan business I have to deal with all of it.”

Though tucked away in a small hill-town of Tuscany, fame has not eluded her. With over 40 years of experience, she has been invited to showcases in over 40 collective and personal exhibitions in Italy, USA, Japan, Paris etc. In 1990 Lucia produced some of the costumes for the lead roles in the Franco Zeffirelli film, ‘Hamlet’. Even designer Emilio Pucci spoke of her creations: “Her work is hope and love and as such has a validity that transcends it substance and embellishes its value.”

“I use all quality materials, my clothes and fabrics are treated in detail, sewn by me, truly hand made with a 40-year experience. Who is more sustainable than me?” 

WHERE: Visit her atelier in San Gimignano or find her online here.

PRICE RANGE: Coats and jackets 500 to 1500 euros; Accessories 60 to 150 euros

By Aarushi Saxena

Stemming from a conglomerate of childhood inspiration, a true passion for fashion and the desire to create something unique, Valentina Accardo (our very own fashion editor) has launched her own label Indomito. With a contemporary take on the classic, evergreen, denim jeans, she’s found a way to personalise these commercial must-haves.

Indomito is sartorial, artisanal, high-quality luxury in the form of customised made-to-order jeans. Her vision borrows from two indisputable leaders in the current fashion climate: slow fashion and Made-In-Italy. 

Speaking to Valentina about the story behind Indomito and what we can expect from her designs, it is very evident that this is a dream come true for her.

With a wide smile and ample confidence she says, “I am like a jeans expert, all my friends say so. Before I used to customise jeans, now I’m designing and creating them.”

A: I’m curious, Why the name Indomito?

V: As a child I was constantly exposed to military uniforms as my father was an admiral in the navy. The strong form and structure of clothing, the navy blue hues and the ‘indomitable’ nature of those uniforms has always stuck with me. Also, my father spent 3 years on a ship called Indomito. When I designed my first pair of jeans, the style very much reminded me of those clean rigid lines and the name seemed liked a perfect match. 

A: Your jeans are made-to-order and customisable, but what makes them unique?

V: There are so many styles out there, especially those that claim to be the ‘perfect fit for your body. My jeans are designed with a unique shape, a slim flare, not too compressed and a little rigid with clean lines to give form and structure. They are 100% cotton denim and Made-In-Italy.

I wanted to create a ‘desk to dusk’ look for women between 30 – 40 years, who lead busy lifestyles and want fashion that is chic but comfortable. The jeans can easily be worn with a blazer and loafers but also heels for a more glamorous look. I’m a mom with 2 kids, I’m always busy and I never stop – I know after a certain age, changes take place in the body and figure flattering shapes may not necessarily mean figure-hugging anymore.

A: If a customer asked you ‘Who made my clothes?’…

V: They are designed by me but handmade by tailors I chose between Rome & my town Parma.

A: There’s a very strong touch of you in the jeans, but in what way can customers personalise them?

V: Yes, the dark navy blue and the red embroidered initials on the pocket are me (my father’s matrix on his uniform was hand-sewn in red thread as well). But customers can choose the colour of their embroidery thread, whether or not they want back pockets and a little secret only they’ll know – the pattern of the pocket linings (checks, polka dots, liberty flowers, stripes) and of course any adjustments on the leg. I believe it’s all about the details – I’m Italian and I want my design to breathe ‘Made-In-Italy’.

A: It’s great to see how passionate you are about them! How do I get myself a pair? 

V: Currently I sell made-to-order jeans on The Dressing Screen. You can get yours in 20 days :).

A: I really want to know, how does it feel to see this project come alive? 

I have started Indomito on the encouragement of friends and family who have seen the magic I can create with a pair of denims. It is a dream come true to finally make my own jeans instead of customising Levis. The best thing in life is to work on your passion. I’m here giving an interview today, I never thought I would ever do that!

A: I’m lucky to be taking it! So, what does the future of Indomito look like?

My label is very young and I think it’s important to focus on one thing and perfect it. Maybe next season I’ll bring something more exclusive and customised, exploring colours and fabrics for winter! 

PRICE RANGE: 300 euros

WHERE TO BUY: At the dressing screen

By Aarushi Saxena

Bellagio, Italy –Taking the ‘silk route’ along Lago di Como to Bellagio, was like stepping into a crafts village, home to generations of artisans.  A walk along the lakeside boulevard, navigating cobblestoned alleyways, peeping into 19thcentury vintage shops led to Pierangelo Masciadri’s atelier.

There’s no better way to describe Pierangelo than as ‘an intellectual artist, designer and stylist’. But he’s better recognized as the man who designed Bill Clinton’s election-day winning tie! Before launching his namesake label, he studied as a graphic designer at the Academy of Brera in Milan and worked as a textile designer for big names in the fashion industry. All of his creations are ‘works of art’ and a few minutes in his shop is akin to taking a heritage tour through Italy.

Renaissance art, baroque, neo-classicism, art deco, art nouveau inspire the prints of scarves adorning the ceilings, the silk bags, ponchos and his ‘presidential ties’. Imagine an art gallery, a museum and an archive all rolled into one shop and designed by one man. Even if you didn’t know your history, each piece is accompanied by a small postcard explaining the story behind the art.

“I want people to know the meaning behind each of my designs. It’s very important and a huge satisfaction to see people not only wearing my creations but actually wearing art.”

THE PRESIDENTIAL TIES – BILL CLINTON, GEORGE BUSH, BARACK OBAMA

Rising to fame in 1992 after one of his designs was chosen to be worn by Bill Clinton on the day he won the elections, Pierangelo believes that:

“The cravat is very important in a man’s outfit; it’s the only accessory a man has to translate a strong message.”

Pierangelo explains the story behind the red tie made for Bill Clinton

He also designed ties for George Bush in 2004 and gifted a set to Barack Obama who responded with a letter (thanking him and speaking of the importance of ‘connections between cultures of our countries’).

PIERANGELO’S ‘INTELLECTUAL ART’

Re-interpreting Leonardo da Vinci’s Leicester Code onto silk ties is nothing short of intellectual, but that’s just one of his collections. There’s more to his designs than meets the eye. Through his art Pierangelo pays homage to Venetian liberty, Murano glass artisans, painters like Caravaggio and Modigliani and architects of the ‘Razionalismo movement’ like Terragni. A scarf with a simple pattern that seemed to be a play on symmetry and optical art was completely transformed into an exact replica of a famous Terragni building in Como, in just three quick folds.

“For me, fashion is also a way to send a cultural message. My collection, Homage to Arione, is connecting art and the theme of protection and preservation of marine life.”

Designed for Prince Albert II of Monaco, the story behind it,  is in the myth of Arione, a famous lyrist who saves himself from being killed at the hands of pirates by playing his music to attract dolphins who rescue him. The artwork is inspired by the renaissance frescoes of Andrea Mantegna.

“In my scarves, I have all the stories of history.” 

SUSTAINABLITY AND THE DESIGN PROCESS

“My philosophy is to exult the Como Silk in my creations. It respects the environment and it’s also the reason why it’s so expensive.”

Designed by Pierangelo and Made in Italy with 100% Como Silk, the label takes care to ensure a green footprint. His artisans work on hand-rolling the scarves, hand-stitching the ties and his line of accessories use glasswork made by the craftspeople of Murano. 

While Pierangelo manually draws the designs on papers with oil paints and watercolours, the printing is done after it is converted into digital art. With a small embarrassed smile he says, “When the design is transferred into the computer I look at it and usually make many, many changes always. But the man who does this is very patient. To obtain the best you have to work many, many times on it.”

The shift to digital is recent and has not been without challenges. He was very unsure about the change and preferred working personally with the traditional ‘lucidista’ or screen-printing techniques. “Now I am really happy because there no limits to creativity and there are unlimited colours, with screen printing there were maximum 25 colours. It is also very important from an economic point of view because with screen printing we had to do 40 meters at a time, but with digital I can print only 5-6 pieces if I want.”

One of the oldest screen-printed scarves inspired by Venetian Splendour

With only two stores, both in Bellagio, economic and sustainable production are key factors in their family run business. However, there is no shortage of clients at the store: from doting tourists who have heard about his presidential ties to celebrities who frequent Bellagio and even those who stumble upon his store by chance leaving spellbound by his art.

WHERE TO BUY: Via Roma/Salita Mella, Bellagio or visit his site for more information here

By Aarushi Saxena

MILAN – Summer is upon us and wardrobes need updating. So, here’s a curated list of Baco-recommended summer brands with an artisanal touch:

PALOROSA PROJECT | The Carry-All Basket Tote

Woven tote bags often have a very craftsy and rustic attitude about them. But Cecilia Pirani, founder of the Palorosa Project re-imagines and contemporises these utilitarian classics into modern and sophisticated essentials. The project was started in 2014 as an initiative to preserve traditional craft and basket-weaving techniques of Guatemalan artisans. Each Palorosa bag is handwoven by the local craftspeople using recycled plastic threads, in eye-soothing colour combinations. Think earthy tones to bold brights, soft accents to pop additions. It is a sustainable fashion statement.

Today, the Palorosa Project has emerged as a lifestyle brand all over the world, with a series of tote bags, baskets and home products sold in multi-brand boutiques.

PRICE RANGE: 80 – 140 euros

WHERE TO BUY: These pieces can now be found in a seasonal studio (April-September 2018) in Milan or on their website here.

OPALINE | Leisure wear, Night wear and Beach wear

Talking to the modern ‘gypsy-smart’ generation, Opaline is a brand that says – be responsibly chic. With more than a passing nod at the ‘glocal’ trend, founder Ingrun Von Keudell brings the handiwork and culture of south Indian artisans to the European market. With flowing dresses and kimonos, embroidered shirts and winter coats, the brand’s aesthetic is a heady combination of classic and eccentric, boho and sartorial.

Ingrun’s designs borrow from the archives of drawings made by generations of locals from the village of Tiruvannamali. Motifs of flowers, leaves, corals, owls and even sharks are transmitted through the ancient block printing technique and brought to life through the hands of artisans like Shreya, Radha and Shruti, who also inspire the names of collections. Shuttling back and forth between Italy and India, is nothing new for Ingrun, who spent most of her childhood there, breathing in the tradition and falling in love with the colours! After obtaining a degree from Parsons School Of Design and working with big names in the fashion industry, she started her own project with a capsule collection of pajamas that unfolded into Opaline in 2015. Today, ‘Responsibly chic’ is more than just a saying  for Opaline, as it devolves 5% of its proceeds to the Om Shanti NGO, that helps improve the quality of life of Indian widows through craftsmanship.

PRICE RANGE: 100-350 euros

WHERE TO BUY: The newest concept store is at the Tortona Design District, Milan or visit their website here.

MARCH11 | Revisit ‘The Unofficial Top of Summer’                      

Founded in 2015 by two Ukrainians, stylist Robert Mishchenko and Svitlana Golovchcenko, March11 is rooted in their traditional costumery, namely the Vyshyvanka blouse.  Balancing the old world charm of heritage and craftsmanship with modern embroidery techniques, the signature Vyshyvanka blouses take upto 2000 metres of thread and 14 days to make. It was traditionally used as a talisman of sorts, with embroidery used in the ‘vulnerable’ spots such as along the neckline or cuffs, from where evil spirits could enter.

Various embroidery designs can be adapted to six styles and made in a plethora of colour combinations. An added hand-made touch is transmitted through the fine finishing and tasselled embellishment, making each piece different. Only the playful bohemian-luxe vibe remains constant! March11 has now expanded beyond its traditional origins and is producing embroidered dresses, blouses, playsuits and tunics on a pre-order basis for women all over the world.  In sync with the growing trend, the brand discards the seasonal fashion calendar and releases new collections every quarter.

PRICE RANGE: 350-1200 euros

WHERE TO BUY: Visit their website here.

LANAPO | Sandals from Cinque Terre

Lanapo is an artisanal brand making sandals and wedges inspired by the landscape and culture of the Cinque Terre villages of Italy. They are handmade in Italy with high quality leather that is processed in Italy – and that’s what makes them a gem. The collection started with 5 models named after each of the Cinque Terre villages and expanded to today includes pieces named after shopping promenades and fashion districts of Milan like Brera and Montenapoleone.

Named after founder Federica Napoletano’s nickname La Napo, the brand focuses on creating and spreading beauty, through the vivid colours of Cinque Terre that can be seen on the sandals as well and at the store in Monterosso Al Mare.

PRICE RANGE: 135 – 185 euros

WHERE TO BUY: Stores in Milan and Cinque Terre or at their website here.

DA COSTANZO DI CAPRI | Made in Capri, with love

Costanzo Ruocco is a master shoemaker from Capri who to this day handcrafts the original ‘Caprese’ sandals alongside son Antonio who has inherited the family business. He works in his bottega at Piazza 00 using old weathered tools, Italian leather, Swarovski crystals, pearls and precious stones to create works of art. He has sold hundreds and thousands of shoes to a a wide international clientele that includes celebrities like Sofia Loren and Jacqueline Onassis. 

Refined, elegant and unquestionably essential styles are renewed in every season’s collection and created on made-to-order basis.

PRICE RANGE: 120 – 200 euros

WHERE TO BUY: Visit his atelier in Capri or buy here.