CRILOI: Italian Sartorial Style Meets French Minimalism

Criloi's spring summer collection. Courtesy Photo

PARIS– Criloi, by Italian designer Cristina Loi, was selected this season by France’s Fédération Française de la Couture, du Prêt-à-porter des Couturiers et des Créateurs de Mode to show her collection in the “Designer’s Apartment” along with 11 other Paris-based fashion newcomers. Loi’s fashions combine Italian sartorial finesse with French simplicity. BACO’s Paris correspondent Marianne Dorell takes us into the designer’s studio for a Q & A. 

What was the starting point of this collection?

First of all, it was the first time that I built a complete collection, and it was a true challenge for me.
As always, it starts with the fabric. My work is always inspired by the material.
I have to see the fabrics, to feel them, to get an idea of what I want to do.
When I saw the print that became emblematic of this collection, I immediately felt in love. My previous collections used to be monochromatic, but this print really made me think of summer, a summer in Sardinia. The pale beige with this dark green reminds me the Mediterranean earth. At first, it looks like a camouflage print. However, when you look at it carefully, you realize that’s not the case at all.
Then, I paired it with some pink cotton organza and selected other interesting fabrics, such as technical types of taffetas that give it a raincoat feeling.
Of course, I continued my exploration of the shirt with some new declination. I wanted to do a summer trench that can be very elegant, but also be worn in a more casual way.

What kind of woman do you have in mind when you design your clothes?

I don’t really have a precise kind of woman in mind, but I do think of one who likes to mix different styles, like winter and summer clothes, and who can sometimes be a bit eccentric. A woman who has knowledge, because I feel dressing also requires a kind of knowledge.

Why does Bermudas seem to be one of the key pieces of the collection?

It is a very simple piece for me. With the fabrics I provided, you can wear it during the summer, with a swimming costume underneath, or put it in a more elegant way with a shirt. It allows you to show your legs, which is always a good idea in the summer. It can also be worn during the winter with tights.

Where do you find your fabrics?
Initially, a stockist provides the fabrics in Milan that has the best quality for the best price. He buys fabrics from luxury big brands. However, now that my brand is developing, I can’t rely on this source of supply anymore. I need the clothes in the biggest quantity available, and I need to be able to re-order fabric, which is impossible with this kind of stockist.
Then, I produce everything in France and Italy.

As an Italian designer, do you like working in Paris?

Coming to Paris was a way to challenge myself. I wanted to start all over again, (editor’s note: Cristina Loi started a brand in 2002 in Milan) and Paris gave me the possibility.
People here like my work and support me. I had some good articles that really motivated me to go even further. It is an honor to have been selected for the Designer Apartment, and it’s a great opportunity. They also give us precious advice on our work.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

You may use these HTML tags and attributes: <a href="" title=""> <abbr title=""> <acronym title=""> <b> <blockquote cite=""> <cite> <code> <del datetime=""> <em> <i> <q cite=""> <strike> <strong>