MILAN–Effortless elegance is something that is often innate and not taught, but we can possibly provide you with the next best thing… We caught up with the co-founder of men’s Made in Italy e-commerce Cardano Club. Roberta Frattini shares her view on what it takes to dress like a real “Italian Gentleman.”

BACO: What are some of the things that are a MUST for the modern Italian gentleman? 

RF: It s always difficult to say what is a must have for the Italian gentleman but here’s my list:

1. The artisanal tie

2. A 100% silk pocket square

3. Silver cuff links (possibly customized).

4.  Handmade shoes with matching leather belt

5. Navy blue knee-length “filo di scozia” fine cotton socks

6. A bespoke suit

7. Bespoke white shirt with initials

8. A customized shoe care box

9. A one of kind shaving brush

BACO: What are some non-tangible qualities a modern gentleman must possess? 

RF: Knowledge: we believe that real exclusivity is not driven anymore by price or big brands but the knowledge of many meanings behind an item. Exclusivity: craftsmanship is by its nature a limited edition business. Let’s be honest you don’t want a tie sold in 100 items or more. We have “one of a kind” ties. The important item in a man’s wardrobe is a sense of Timeless Elegance, never trendy.

BACO: What are some of the brands you carry with the most interesting artisanal or family history and traditions? 

RF: All our brands have a strong artisanal history , in some cases it is a very long story (Marinella, Maglia, Merola, Valobra, Acqua di Biella, …) in some other cases it is much shorter (Passaggio Cravatte, Marfin , Sciamat) but not less interesting. We want to support young artisans and help them to emerge. It is our mission and we are genuinely enthusiastic about this.

BACO: What items are a must for this summer? 

RF: This summer the must is definitely a handmade extrafine panama hat by Tesi and an elegant swim short by Petronius1926 with the same ties prints and mother of pearl button.

BACO: What is a must for Pitti? 

RF: A pair of handmade sunglasses by Bob Sdrunk

BACO: Never ?

RF: The sockless phenomenon. We hope this trend fades….it is not that elegant and not very Italian.

BACO: LOL. You aren’t the only person who thinks that. Ok, always? 

RF:  Handmade vintage sunglasses by Bob Sdrunk in June and a handmade umbrella by Francesco Maglia for Pitti’s January edition.

IN THIS ISSUE:  Africa’s Mens Wear is Ripe for Growth, PITTI PREVIEW:  Stars of Constellation Africa, Making Men’s Wear In Rwanda, Cardano Club: Dressing Like A Real Italian Gentleman , Pitti Uomo Accessories Preview, Modernizing Artisan Allure at Pitti

Robbio, Italy--The 27-year-old journalist-turned-cravat extraordinaire Gianni Cerutti will go to the ends of the earth to find textiles – some that haven’t been dusted since Italy still had a monarchy.

Silk factory bankruptcy auctions, fabric store basement blowouts and estate sales – from here to the UK — are all fair game to him.

Clad in a classic Neapolitan double breasted suit, crafted with 19th-century puckered shoulders and paisley tie, Cerutti himself is a sight to behold.

“It all started because I was unsatisfied with not being able to find the tie of my dreams,” he told BACO, emphasizing the word unsatisfied.

In fact, at age 13, he would hide from his parents, put on the most mature voice he could muster and call tie purveyors, pretending he was a serious client.

“Why did I do it? Because for me it was a game that fed my dream to one day have the tie I really wanted,” Cerutti said, surrounded by a sea of fabrics and rolls of vintage materials he salvaged from warehouses and factories throughout Europe.

Cerutti runs Passaggio Cravatte with his girlfriend, Marta Passaggio, who the company is named after. Marta sews the ties Cerutti designs by hand in their workshop in a town called Robbio, which lies about an hour outside of Milan.

A large portion of Cerutti’s sales are brokered through his website and by appointment at Milan’s Four Seasons Hotel.

Strangely, about 90 percent of Cerutti’s clients hail from the United States, while the others are from Hong Kong and various European nations. In Italy, however, the brand has yet to take off.

“Italians are afraid to do something different. Americans are always looking to be different and it is great to be the reference point of style for clients who have become regulars,” he added.

Italy, he complains, is also lacking the creativity that it once had in the 1930’s, an era that Cerutti personally has an affinity for.

“Designers then weren’t afraid of more bold lines, colors and prints. They had a level of creativity that you just can’t find today,” he added.

Rooted in traditional Neapolitan sartorial techniques, Cerutti’s customers can match their desired vintage textile with an almost obsolete seven silk fold, which requires about 1.7 by 1.2 meters of fabric for just one tie. Most ties today are made by sewing several smaller pieces of fabric together.

“Nobody makes ties like this anymore. Making ties from one piece of material is a sign of prestige,” Cerutti said.

“These are really the Rolls Royce of ties,” Cerutti said.

ALSO IN THIS ISSUE: Marta Ferri: The Contemporary Atelier, Lorenzo Borghi: Old Style Milliner, Freccia Bestetti: Too International for Just Italy, Brunello Cucinelli: The King of Cashmere, The Mini World of Ginevra Dondina, Passaggio Cravatte: A Treasure Chest of Ties 

___________________________________________________________

WHO: Gianni Cerutti
, Marta Passaggio

WHAT THEY MAKE: Bespoke vintage silk ties

HEADQUARTERS: Robbio, Italy

PRICE: EUR135 to EUR175

WHERE TO BUY: By appointment at Milan’s Four Seasons Hotel or on www.passaggiocravatte.com