Pitti 90: Gosha Rubchinskiy


FLORENCE – Comme des Garçons-backed Gosha Rubchinskiy staged his Pitti fashion show in a former tobacco factory (also the setting for his 17-minute-long film), a stark industrial compound that bridged the gap between the designer’s Eastern Bloc sensibilities and his Italian setting. Although he is known for his street-inflected wardrobe deeply influenced by post-Soviet nostalgia, it is his tailoring which made a remarked debut on the Florentine runway. Italy also provided him with plenty of opportunities to create cash-cow items – logo sweatshirt, backpacks and tees – by mining the sportswear of Fila, Kappa, and Sergio Tacchini for a vision of tacky-trendy items that you can wager once more take over the streets.