By Dominique Emmen

Milan, Italy –The Brera district in Milan is a small village brimming with cobblestone alleys, boutiques, art galleries, design studios and artisanal shops. One of the hidden gems Brera holds is Giòsa Milano, otherwise known as La Bottega del Coccodrillo (The Crocodile Shop).  Specializing in everything made of genuine crocodile leather, the owner Giorgio Santamaria has created a unique destination – a boutique and craftsman’s atelier, all under one roof.

Giorgio’s knowledge of exotic leathers has been passed down from his father since the 1950’s. Starting as a small leather goods workshop, the business soon flourished as a manufacturer of reptile skins, operating as a supplier to luxury brands worldwide. Through the years, Giorgio acquired a vast amount of know-how about exotic leathers and their unique traits. In 2004, he decided to open his own boutique in order to sell bespoke items that reflect the versatility and expertise of the artisans he collaborates with.

“My choice to start my own business is mainly because most big brands do not truly recognise the work of craftspeople. It is of course easier to be supported by an international business, but it also limits the space for creativity,” Giorgio said.

Giorgio Santamaria in his workshop.

WHY CROCODILE

Giorgio’s eye for detail does not only return into the collection but also in the way he runs his business. Considering his experience with many different types of exotic hides, he specifically chose to work solely with crocodile.

“When I was a young boy, I used to look at luxury brands such as Hermès, Gucci and Chanel. Soon I found a gap in the market. None of the brands could be recognized by the use of crocodile leather. Hermès, for instance, is known for the Kelly and Birkin bag, but they do the bags in many different skins. Nowadays, Giòsa is recognized by doing everything in genuine crocodile leather” Giorgio said.

And when Giorgio says everything, he truly means everything. Besides the broad collection of bags and small leather goods, Giòsa sells sneakers, jackets and any other special-made items requested by their international clientele. Since some of these one-of-a-kind items can only be made by using specialized techniques, they work with a consortium of artisans in Milan to offer the best end product for their clientele. For instance, together with a nearby tailor they crafted a winter jacket for Arnold Schwarzenegger that incorporates crocodile patches embedded into the fabrics.

 
THE LEATHER

 
The quality and therefore the price depend on the origin of the crocodile. There are many different species with each their unique traits. However, only some are good enough to be made into high-quality luxury goods. For instance, Giòsa does not use caiman from South-America that produces one of the lesser quality skins. One of the most adopted skins comes from the North-American alligator, which has a very distinct type of scales. The most expensive crocodile leather originates from Australia.

Giòsa mostly buys the crocodile skins at the tanneries of Hermès, since they offer the highest quality and control the large part of the distribution. When they receive the skins they are available in a variety of colours and finishes from mat to shiny. Giorgio is in charge of the cut that determines the final look of the product. This is the most challenging part because scales are like fingerprints – unique like Giòsa Milano.

Leftover art, made by the mother of Giorgio.

WHERE? Milano 20121,Via Ciovasso, 6

PRICE? On demand, depending on the leather and type of product.

By Dominique Emmen

Castellucchio, Italy –Just outside of Mantova, a city that seems to have stood still since the middle ages, the Pasotti umbrella firm is situated in Castellucchio, where Ernesta Pasotti started her namesake company of handcrafted umbrellas in 1956. A company where her legacy lives on in her grandchildren Nicola and Andrea Begotti.

Together, they are charting the future of the grandmother’s company and propelling it into the 21st century, via social media and travels to trade shows to boost Pasotti’s reputation for Italian excellence worldwide. Testament to their efforts, the family’s hand crafted umbrellas, known for their whimsical woodwork, have been embraced by A-list stars like JLo and Madonna, who famously donned the family’s lion-head cane in one of her music videos.

Nicola manages the commercial affairs of the company, and Andrea, a skilled-craftsmen in his own right, works inside the atelier with his mother and father, sculpting the ornate metal shafts with various types of wood like bamboo or chestnut.

The iconic Rock ‘n’ Roll collection of Pasotti, with skull and reptile handles.

The meeting room of the company was an oasis of umbrellas, canes and shoehorns. From left to right, a shift was apparent from a more aggressive rock style – skulls, reptiles and dragons – to a softer, feminine side of birds, bees and floral prints. Andrea explained that besides their online catalogue and presence at trade shows, clients can visit the factory. They can customize and order their own bespoke Pasotti item, choosing from a variety of prints, handles, colours and materials.

One of their bestsellers is a flower-inspired umbrella that is characterized by gradient colour patterns and a double-fabric technique that covers the metal ribbing. Every time Andrea opened one of the umbrellas, it was a projection of petals, feathers and animalesque prints. Another peculiar piece was a peacock-inspired umbrella with Swarovski crystals, worth €360.

“I can spend the whole day in this room” Andrea smiled before heading to the workshop.

Fabrics are cut in triangles and stitched together to create the umbrella’s canopy.

When every umbrella is double-checked, the bespoke pieces are ready to be shipped worldwide. Andrea mentioned that whilst China remains the biggest market for Pasotti, Japan has the highest demand for lace-trimmed parasols, “The parasols are a bit smaller than the umbrellas, but made with the same fabric, so they are water-resistant as well”. In addition, they recently opened a new mono brand store in Seoul and have a small office in Beverly Hills with a small selection of products mainly for Hollywood stars.

“One day Meryl Streep wrote us an email with a special request. She wanted a Pasotti umbrella for her birthday and we sent it to her in one day” Andrea said.

“Each umbrella takes more or less the same time to make, but when a client wants Swarovski crystals, I hand sew every crystal one by one on the fabric. So of course that takes longer” Andrea explained.

Pasotti produces about 100 umbrellas daily — each one characterized by Italian quality and style and influenced by Mantova’s everlasting romantic nature.

“We design together. When someone has an idea, we start to experiment and create, and finally we find the solution” Andrea proudly stated.

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HEADQUARTERS: Via Roma n.77 – 46014, Castellucchio (MN)

AVERAGE PRICE: €200

WHERE TO BUY: Take a look on the website, click here

Vigevano, Italy–Almini Collection Zero operates under the same core values as textile makers do when they spin fine cashmere and silk. Pleasure, joy and delight, are just a few sensations that Carlo Ruggero, seeks to evoke with the production of every shoe.

Ruggero said that what sets his shoes apart is the process: starting from making a unique upper, followed by fitting the leather directly on to the foot — for an authentic bespoke experience. The stitches are sewn directly onto the sole, so there are no visibile trimmings on the outside, leaving the shoes with as sleek of an appearance as possible.

The company is based in Vigevano and has been run by the same family for four generations.

The Almini company was founded 1921, and started by kids boots. They later began crafting soccer cleats, until the 80s, when they began to seduce the Middle-Eastern markets with the production of sandals.p

Their “0” Collection of hand made mens shoes is indicative of the tradition and the innovation that are the result of extensive research and years of artisanal heritage.

You can have the full experience in the new flagship store just opened in Milan.

HEADQUARTES: Vigevano

RETAIL PRICE: From EUR750

WHERE TO BUY: Via Bagutta 24, Milan.

Kigali, Rwanda-based bespoke men’s wear designer Hategekimana Maxmilien Kolbe was born into the Rwandan genocide. After his birth, his mother, a nurse, was shot in the leg, his brother carried him in his arms as the family struggled to reach the Congo border.

Named after martyr Saint Maxmilian Kolbe, a Polish Priest, who died during another genocide in Auschwitz in the place of a Jewish prisoner, Kolbe’s story is one of hope for many aspiring designers in Eastern Africa, where there are no schools or institutions that foster a career in fashion.

“The internet was crucial for me because I learned everything I know from the internet. I didn’t go to fashion school. Fashionista.com and Vogue.com, and all those online magazines I was reading, were my teachers,” Kolbe said in a phone interview with BACO, adding that movies and television also exposed him to designers like Yves Saint Laurent and Riccardo Tisci, two designers who have been remote mentors for him.

Kolbe

IN THIS ISSUE:  Africa’s Mens Wear is Ripe for Growth, PITTI PREVIEW:  Stars of Constellation Africa, Making Men’s Wear In Rwanda, Cardano Club: Dressing Like A Real Italian Gentleman , Pitti Uomo Accessories Preview, Modernizing Artisan Allure at Pitti

MILAN–On any given day at the Rubinacci atelier on  Milan’s Via Montenapoleone, high-end bespoke connoisseurs will likely see young international and Italian apprentices stitching traditional Neapolitan peak lapels alongside older, more experienced and master tailors.

Heir to the fabled label known for its power-player clientele, Luca Rubinacci is invested in infusing the brand with a fresh image to cater to the rising number of dapper dandies, many of whom follow his unmistakable style on Instagram. In addition to offering ready-to-wear and made-to-measure fashions at the new Via Gesu’ flagship store, collaborations with brands like artisanal espadrilles maker Manebi‘ and a push to hire young apprentices with an unbridled sense of style are all facets of the younger Rubinacci’s strategy to fuel the company’s image.

“Why do we hire young tailors? Because they like to make more playful, trendy even experimental things. They understand the world is changing,” Rubinacci said.

Kim, a 29 year old South Korean is being praised by one of Rubinacci’s older tailors. “This kid works hard. He’s one of the best I have seen,” an older tailor speaking on the the condition of anonymity said. When apprentices start at the Rubinacci school, they start by making hand made bespoke suits for Luca. They eventually graduate to making suits for Luca’s father Mariano.

“That’s a lot harder because my father has a more complicated figure,” Luca said.

After visiting Milan on vacation and falling in love with Italian mens fashions, Kim decided to stay. He hopes that this Italian sojourn is forever.

“I could never do something like this in my country.”

Nearby 23-year-old Federico is carefully stitching a blazer by hand. The Italian-native could have opted for a career in fashion, but he said he has the patience to make it in tailoring, where one suit takes between 80 and 90 man hours.

“I can’t find this experience in a school. Here I am working with my hands and with this experience, I can really do anything,” Federico said.

For Rubinacci, the generational mix in tailoring is crucial to keeping its old clients happy while attracing new ones.

Lately Luca Rubinacci has been working on making linen jackets ready-to-wear blazers and suits that have flamboyant foulard printed silk lining depicting Southern Italian landscapes or Napoleonic victory scenes, in order to lure a younger set, but at the same time, makes men his father’s age feel like they are keeping abreast of current trends.

“Sometimes the most interesting thing about a suit is something you don’t show right off the bat. It’s only when you open up your jacket or put your hands in the pockets that you see that something is happening. For a 50 year old, this is a younger jacket. For a young man it is a sophisticated jacket.”

ALSO IN THIS ISSUE: Rubinacci: Grooming Young Tailors to Reach Next Gen, Costumery At World’s Oldest Opera, Gherardini: Preserving Icons, Musella Dembech: Father and Son, Brunello Cucinelli: The Solomeo School 

MILAN–Alive with Savile Row accents like kaleidoscope-colored cuff links and Made in Italy ones  like sexy Super Duper handmade hats, Artisanal Milano is a haven for women who love men’s sartorial style, as much as it is a haven for male bespoke aficionados who flock there for hand-made oxfords and monk straps crafted in Emilia Romagna.

The store’s owner, Lidia Pellecchia spent five years at Berluti in Paris in their bespoke deparment. And as a native Neapolitan, fine tailoring is basically ingrained in her DNA and her own sartorial style. With her youthful energy, Italian charm and innovative fashion ideas, like her latest creation, the “Lillu,” a women’s loafer with exaggerated tassels, her store is garnering media attention for her its impact on female style.

“A women’s tie should be shorter than a man’s and both points should arrive at the belt. If you use a pocket square, it should be tucked in, in a nonchalant fashion, like this,” Pellecchia explained, as she demonstrated how a woman can perfect the female “sartorial” look with the Neapolitan, hand-made silk handkerchiefs and ties she sells in her store.

BACO’s Editor-in-Chief Sofia Celeste caught up with Lidia Pellecchia in her Via Santa Marta store and discusses her tomboy look:

Personal Style: “I have a huge closet full of historic pieces like my mother’s old blazers and purses. I love anything retro. In fact, I love the 1970s era, especially 78, when icons like David Bowie and Bryan Ferry were making waves with their beautiful style, their own sense of masculinity. In general, I am not a person that is tied to trends. I don’t know anything about trends. Too many rules are just not for me.”

The Look: Made-to-order Blaze’ off-white blazer with antique keepsake rings, Valentino pants and Neapolitan pocket square, denim shirt with MSGM brocade pants and artisanal “Lillu'” tassel loafers.

Never: Follow trends

Always: Artisanal

WHERE TO BUY: http://artisanalmilano.com

ALSO IN THIS ISSUE: Blaze': A Blazer Revolution, CB Made in Italy’s Cecilia Bringheli, RACIL: Smoking the French Way, BACO STYLE: Lidia Pellecchia’s Sartorial Style , Female Sartorial Style: From the Atelier to the Runway , Puglia’s Tagliatore: Amping Up Women’s Wear 

BACO tracks the female sartorial look from the atelier to the runway this season. See how the trend evolved in our gallery:

MILAN–Italian rock bassist-cum-author-cum-eye wear designer Saturnino Celani’s destiny was pretty much mapped out in the stars when he was a little boy growing up in the medieval Eastern Italian town of Ascoli Piceno, aka “The City of 100 Towers.”

With bells constantly tolling, it is no surprise that at only five years old, he began playing the violin. At 14 years old, he discovered the bass guitar and even earlier than that, he developed an affinity for glasses when his older sister Giovanna was diagnosed with near-sightedness. “I didn’t understand why she was allowed to have glasses and I wasn’t. I didn’t need glasses at that time, but I just got them even without a prescription,” Celani told BACO laughing.

The 45-year-old bass player (an Italian John Paul Jones of Led Zeppelin sort of guy) frequently tours the world alongside singer Jovanotti, but when it comes to his knack for fashion and his head for design, Celani is always the band frontman. His eponymous eye wear label, made by craftsmen in Cadore in Italy’s Veneto region, is on a rocketing-pace fashion trajectory. Over the last year, Celani has been touring the nation’s key fashion trade shows and recently showed at the world’s more prominent eye wear fair, Mido, in Milan this month.

With his upcoming memoir “Testa di Basso” (Head of Bass) coming out this month, Celani recognizes that his life was filled with lucky happenstance occurrences – quite a few of them connect the dots back to his childhood dalliance with the violin and the first time he spotted a local teen band called the “Spitfires.” “The violin isn’t really going to help us,” the band leader said to Celani. But as luck would have it the bassist was called up for military service and Celani got the job, showing he could play bass on the fly. “It was like taking a walk” Celani said.   The natural ease in which he learned to play the bass, is similar to his flair for eye wear, which like his rings and his leather jackets, he never leaves home without. “The greatest satisfaction is seeing someone that is wearing something that in a certain way is part of your DNA,” Celani said.

BACO’s Editor-in-Chief Sofia Celeste sits down with Saturnino Celani and discusses his rockstar look.

Personal Style: “For about four years, I discovered made to measure shoes and it is a great way to spend my money. I really don’t have a style. It basically depends on how I feel. I give a lot of importance to my performance presence because that stimulates me. I can get a little crazier than I normally do and so I choose more communicative pieces like leather jackets.

The Look: Bespoke shoes made by Cesare Baroli on Lake Como, his own “papal” ring made for him with his own trademark logo inspired by the outline of his own face. The ring is embedded with an onyx and was made especially for him by jeweler Veronesi on Milan’s Via del Orso. The ring is now sold and produced online by www.firstpeoplefirst.com . Part of the proceeds from the rings are donated to the Cooperativa Sociale Piccolo Principe, a charity that supports disadvantaged minors, in part by helping them find work. Diesel Black Gold jeans and jacket.

Never: Classic blue shirt

Always: Glasses

WHERE TO BUY: http://saturninoeyewear.com